Bruddah’s Hawaiian Foods – Gardena, CA

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Inspired by the luxe loco moco dreamed up by Animal, the Gastronomer and I decided to do a taste comparison that I’m officially dubbing “Loco for Loco Moco: No Joke-O.” For part one, we would sample the original version: rice, hamburger/spam and eggs over easy, covered in gravy.

Unfortunately, due to scheduling conflicts in our busy and fabulous lives, we had to do our base tastings at separate places. A cursory search for loco moco in Los Angeles, had brought up a two-year-old Chowhound thread where the consensus was that Bruddah’s serves up the best in LA.

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Bruddah’s is found in an unassuming location on Gardena Blvd., which had a very Main Street style feel that seems to have seen better days. Normally that would be quite a drive from the Valley, but I was on my way to San Diego so it was kind of on the way.

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I snapped this pic when the lunch rush was slowing down, but earlier the place was filled with locals.

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I ordered the loco moco with spam ($6.95) instead of hamburger, which was a dollar more. I have to admit, it was a little intimidating to be confronted with this big brown blob. I wondered what I’d gotten myself into.

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I seemed to have had a better introductory experience to loco moco than the Gastronomer, though. We compared notes the next day and I believe her exact words were: “Did you vom?”

On the contrary, I consumed nearly all of my heaping Hawaiian heart attack on a plate. It was the fried Spam that took it to a supremely salty level that I liked. (Tasted much better than the Spam I remembered eating from our elementary school earthquake kits. SoCal kids, you know what I’m talking about.) The gooey egg yolk and mushy overall texture made it great comfort food.

Bruddah’s Hawaiian Foods

1033 W. Gardena Blvd.

Gardena, CA 90247

310-323-9112

P.S. Wikipedia tells a charming, questionably authentic origin story of the dish, that it was created by some local boys at the Lincoln Grill in Hilo, Hawaii.

“One of the boys, George Okimoto was nicknamed ‘Crazy’ because of the wild way he played football. Crazy in Spanish is loco so the boys named the dish loco moco just on a whim. Moco had no special meaning except it rhymed with loco, however unknown to them it happens to be Spanish for ‘mucus’.”

Um, ew?

VOM.

Bruddah's Hawaiian Foods on Urbanspoon

Luau – Beverly Hills, CA

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The venerable Ms. Virbila in her Los Angeles Times review called Luau “the most sedate tiki lounge ever” and I can see what she meant—the quasi-fine dining atmosphere put a bit of a damper on the hedonistic tendencies that tiki spots can bring out.

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The space was smaller than I expected but I thought it was lovely.

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Soft light from the pufferfish lanterns reflects off the mirror shard-studded wall and it’s all dark and kind of romantic, but also a bit spooky at the same time with the slow, plodding island xylophone music pumped in.

(E.T.A. And there you have my first impression of exotica music before I even knew what it was…)

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Drinks were small and expensive, but potent. And because I’m a budding tiki nerd (er, enthusiast), I had fun comparing the cocktail menu to the original Luau one posted online at Arkiva Tropika. I had the Luau Coconut ($16), which was of course served in the aforementioned item. However, it was a “new coconut” and thus without the shell it seemed kind of naked (and slightly squishy). The coconut milk/rum concoction inside was tasty, but it seemed like I only got a few sips because it was mostly filled with crushed ice.

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Our waitress said there wasn’t a pupu platter per se, but that you could kind of design your own with four picks from the “classic” pupus, not with any of the “nouvelle” ones though. We decided to save room for dessert and went straight for the mains. The soy-glazed Chilean sea bass ($35 for 8 oz.) was delectable, but the few accompanying pieces of garlic bok choy were bland. The NY steak ($44) was served already cut up into pieces and came with two sauces and a side of taro root fries (yum!). However, I think Mr. Baseball was more impressed with the above pufferfish lanterns than he was with his steak.

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The pineapple upside down “chaos” ($13) was more like a pineapple upside down minor scuffle. It had the consistency of a pound cake and wasn’t very caramelized on top. Slopped next to it was a spiced applesauce that we didn’t like. Maybe the key lime pie tart with macadamia nut crust would be more promising? Perhaps I’ll find out next time…

8/17/09 Update: Well, it seems like Luau is now closed. A couple weeks I had called and their voicemail had said it was temporary and in the interim recommended diners to Mako and Robata-ya (both from Luau’s chef Mako Tanaka). Bummer, as Luau had tried to beat the recession blues (and lure in more price-conscious folks) with a Sunday night Chinese prix-fixe supper and Dow Jones drink that I didn’t get to try.

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Luau
369 N. Bedford Dr.
Beverly Hills, CA 90209
310-274-0090

Luau on Urbanspoon

The Mai Tai Lounge – Lahaina, HI

The Mai Tai Lounge

I think that The Mai Tai Lounge offers quite possibly the most beautiful views of any of the restaurants on Lahaina’s main drag, and the food’s not too shabby either. When we visited last summer, the restaurant had been open for a few months and didn’t seem to be nearly as crowded as its more well-established neighbors like Kimo’s.

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This worked in our favor as I was able to call ahead on our way there and reserve one of the tables right on the edge of the balcony. So gorgeous!

Menus at The Mai Tai LoungeA peek at the drinks menu, with versions of the Fogcutter, Blue Hawaiian and, of course, their namesake drink. Not the most extensive selection, but it does have the classics. Plus, for another $7 you could keep the Mai Tai mug, which I did. You can probably trace the beginning of my tiki collecting back to this lovely July evening.

Hawaiian style Caesar Salad

Our waiter said there were some recent additions to the menu, including the Hawaiian style Caesar Salad which he highly recommended. And I’m glad he did because it turned to be one of my favorite things that I ate in Hawaii—and I hate salad! That is, unless you make it with grilled Romaine lettuce and sweet, delicious Maui onions…What looks like seagull poop on the plate is actually awesome goat cheese from Maui’s Surfing Goat Dairy.

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The fried calamari with rice ($12) was doused with a Thai chili sauce that was tasty but unfortunately made the dish soggy. We also ordered the macadamia nut encrusted mahi mahi with vanilla bean sauce and wasabi mashed potatoes ($29)—the fish was fine, if a little dry—plus a side of Maui onion rings with chipotle ranch sauce ($8). However, you couldn’t really taste the same distinct flavor of the onion as in the salad. (Supposedly the best Maui onion rings are to be found at the Grand Wailea Resort…may have to make that drive next time.)

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A view of some of the tikis and modern Oceanic Arts-esque design on the upstairs terrace. As the night wore on, this space filled up with folks ordering drinks at the bar, including a couple of friendly Hawaiian dudes who entertained us for the rest of the evening. But that’s a story for another post…

The Mai Tai Lounge
839 Front. St.
Lahaina, Maui, 96761
808-661-5288
www.lahainamaitai.com

Editor’s note: The Mai Tai Lounge closed in March 2013 and is now Koa’s Seaside Grill

Mai Tai Lounge on Urbanspoon